Some suggestions for the correct selection of textile and garment standards

Since entering the 21st century, China's textile industry has made new breakthroughs and developments in industrial upgrading, internationalization, independent innovation, brand effects, and infrastructure construction. At the same time, in order to ensure the fairness of the textile industry and the quality of products The safety of various kinds of textile standards should be born. For companies, the biggest headache for them is how to choose the standards that apply to their products in many national standards, industry standards, and local standards. Most textile and garment standards are recommended standards. Enterprises can choose to use or not use according to the characteristics of their products, but these recommended standards have their own scope of application. Clothing that does not fall within the scope of application will consider the standard selection wrong.

1. According to fabric structure selection The current national standards and industry standards of China's clothing are mainly divided into three categories: woven garment standards (conducted by the National Garment Standardization Technical Committee), knitted garment standards (conducted by the National Textile Standardization Technical Committee) and leather garments Standard (conducted by the National Leather Industry Standardization Technical Committee). The items to be tested are often selected from the basic items directly related to the design of the fabric process. To correctly select the clothing standard, the first step is to clearly classify the structure of the fabric.

The commonly used standards for leather garments are the standards QB/T1615-2006 Leather Clothing and QB/T2882-2008 Fur Clothing and QB/T2955-2008 Fur Shawl and Scarf. These three standards refer to the main materials. It is a costume made of animal skins. Leather is a degraded and non-perishable animal skin obtained through physical and chemical processing such as dehairing and tanning. Simply stated that leather is leather without hair, and fur refers to animal skin with hair obtained through tanning and dyeing. The product. Also known as suede. The fur consists of two parts: the quilt and the skin.

The standard FZ/T73028-2009 Knitted Artificial Leather Garment, implemented on April 1, 2010, mainly refers to composite fabrics made of knitted fabrics as the base fabric and synthetic resin as the main raw material, and this composite fabric is mass produced. Leatherette garments. Commonly used are polyurethane dry-process artificial leather and polyvinyl chloride artificial leather, and it is particularly pointed out here that the underlying base fabric must be a knitwear.

The woven fabric is made of two or more pairs of mutually perpendicular yarns, and the fabric is made by interlacing warp and weft at an angle of 90 degrees. Knitting is the use of knitting needles to bend the yarn into loops, and then stitches the loops together to form a knitted fabric. Standards for woven garments and knitted garments have very different internal quality requirements. For example, the internal quality requirements for FZ/T73020-2004 “Knitted casual wear” include items such as top breaking strength, rate of change in size after washing, and distortion after washing. , And the woven GB/T2660-2008 "Shirt" standard will assess the tear strength of the fabric, the degree of splitting, after washing the appearance of clothing after washing and so on. Due to the differences in manufacturing processes, the requirements for the appearance and sewing of the two types of fabric products are also very different [[1]]. If the knitted fabrics have skipping stitches, missing stitches, etc., the common defects of the woven fabrics are It is broken through weft, shrinking shrinkage and so on. In addition, because knitted fabrics have the characteristics of good extensibility, easy curling, and easy disengagement, flaws in the appearance defects are not allowed, and stiffness is not strictly required.

Therefore, before the selection of standards, we must distinguish the structure of fabrics so as to avoid the situation of Zhang Guanli. Distinguishing fabric structure categories is the first and most critical step in the proper selection of corresponding textile and apparel product standards.

2, according to the fabric of the fabric content of fiber content selection There are many standards clearly stipulated for some of the fabric weaving fabrics produced by the clothing, such as FZ/T81006-2007 "Denim clothing" standard, which clearly states that in addition to There is a cowboy's production process, cowboy style, but also requires cotton-based garments. There are special requirements for raw material composition, and the gross wool content of FZ/T73018-2002 "Mao Knitwear" is required to be greater than or equal to 30%, and that of FZ/T73005-2002 "Low Hair Blended and Faux Knitted Knitwear" is lower than the requirement. 30% or other non-wool-like wool knitwear, FZ/T73009-2008 "Cashmere knitwear" requires pure cashmere or cashmere containing 30% or more, FZ/T73015-2009 "Linen knitwear" requires 50% linen and Above, FZ/T18132-2008 "Silk Apparel" requires silk and other standards.

The scope of use of these standards has stipulated the content of certain fibers, so before determining whether these standards can be used, the fiber content of the fabric must be determined first.

3. According to the applicable age range and gender selection In order to increase the safety performance of infants and young children (GB18401-2010 regulations: 36 months for infants and young children) in recent years, the State has established some clothing standards that are different from adult Baby clothing. Common FZ/T73025-2006 "knitting infant clothing", FZ/T81014-2008 "woven infant clothing." These standards put forward requirements that are higher than adult clothing in terms of formaldehyde, pH value, color fastness, and other items related to personal safety. Some items that only include infant clothing before performance evaluation, such as buttons, are not allowed. Detachment of object pull, color fastness to saliva, etc. However, not all infants and young children can only follow the above mentioned two standards, many standards in their assessment indicators on the separation of infants and adults, such as GB/T2662-2008 "cotton clothing" which points infants and young children and Non-direct skin contact with two grades of requirements.

Gender-based criteria are more commonly seen in GB/T 2664-2009 Men's Suits and Coats and GB/T 2665-2009 Women's Suits and Coats, both of which are in appearance quality and intrinsic quality. The requirements are the same. The only difference is that the scope of application of the standard is different from the name of the standard. One requirement is for men's wear and one for women's wear.

4, according to the use of functional selection of some special-purpose products in order to reflect its special functionality will also develop relevant standards to meet the needs of clothing, in addition to these standards in addition to the common clothing standards required inspection items plus some functional The testing of the project, such as FZ/T62012-2009 "Anti-mite Bedding" requires a drive-out rate of more than 60%, and FZ/T73022-2004 "Knitted thermal underwear" requires a heat preservation rate of more than 30% and an air permeability of more than 180 mm/ s and so on.

In general, the correct selection of textile and garment standards is not difficult, as long as the first point in the article is the main point, supplemented by the second, third, and fourth points and combined with the scope of application of the standard can select the correct product standards. In addition, more attention should be paid to the issuance and implementation of new standards. Whether or not we can implement the product standards well will greatly help improve the quality of the company's own products and improve the company's quality system. Similarly, companies can use the standards well to regulate the quality management of China's textile and garment industries and improve China's garment industry. The development has also played a key role. Therefore, the quality management department should intensify the promotion of standards, increase the awareness of clothing manufacturers to implement the correct product standards, and then earnestly implement the standards. (Author: Shenzhen Institute of Metrology and Quality Inspection)

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