Garment industry: Made in China is changing

During periods when international demand is generally in the doldrums, buyers are seeking cheaper supplies. In China, where raw materials and labor costs have increased substantially, buyers are seeking low prices. On the one hand, some factories in the Pearl River Delta and Yangtze River Delta have begun to shift to inland cities and the west; on the other hand, many companies have begun to seek transformation and upgrading. The focus is on the production and research and development of high-end products. Low-end basic clothing production has been neglected due to its low added value, and some international buyers have begun to purchase clothing and textiles in Southeast Asia and Western Hemisphere countries. The environment in which Chinese companies are located is becoming more and more complex and the competition is becoming increasingly fierce. For textiles and clothing, Chinese manufacturing is changing.

The main reason for the increase in export prices is to see the recent import and export situation. After entering the second half of the year, domestic textile and clothing exports did not fall back as previously expected, but people in the industry pointed out that the current increase in textile and apparel exports is mainly due to price increase, and the number of real growth in exports reflects only the single digits. And in the context of growing concerns about the economic prospects of the peripheral economies and a clear appreciation of the renminbi, future exports are not expected to be optimistic.

According to data released by the General Administration of Customs, in August, China’s textile and apparel exports were US$25.451 billion, which was a decrease of 2.51% from the previous month in July and a year-on-year increase of 26.4%. Among them, textile exports reached 8.363 billion U.S. dollars, a decrease of 3.90% month-on-month, and exports of apparel and accessories came to 17.088 billion U.S. dollars, a decrease of 1.19% month-on-month. From January to August, China’s textile and apparel exports totaled 163.163 billion U.S. dollars, a year-on-year increase of 25.72%, a slight increase of 0.12 percentage points from 25.60% in January-July. Among them, textile exports reached US$62.959 billion, which represented a year-on-year increase of 27.18%; exports of apparel and accessories reached US$100.205 billion, an increase of 24.82% over the same period last year.

On the import side, textile imports from January to July totaled 10.92 billion U.S. dollars, an increase of 10.7%, and apparel imports reached 2.04 billion U.S. dollars, an increase of 67.6%. In textiles, the import volume of yarns and fabrics is still negative, with a decrease of 17.3% and 0.5% respectively. The import volume and price of knitted and woven garments increased by 51.6% and 13.7% respectively. In July, the import value of textiles was basically the same as the same period of last year, and the amount of apparel imports increased by 56%. In textiles, the import volume of yarns and fabrics dropped by 16.9% and 13.9%, respectively, and the slowdown slowed down from the previous period. The unit price of imports rose by 22.2% and 12.3% respectively, and the growth rate dropped. In apparel, the import volume and value of knitted and woven garments increased by 30.9% and 59%, respectively, and the unit price of imports rose by 21.7%.

In September, the China Manufacturing Purchasing Managers Index (PMI) was 51.2%, which was a 0.3% increase from the previous month. In August, the export orders index was 48.3%, which was a decrease of 2.1 percentage points from the previous month. This is also the index since 2009. 5 Since the beginning of the month, the manufacturing industry has fallen below 50% for the first time. Among them, the new export orders index for textiles, transportation equipment manufacturing, wood processing and furniture manufacturing, etc., was below 50%. People in the industry believe that the current global economic sluggishness, the increase in raw material prices, the appreciation of ***, and the projected increase in import tariffs by developed countries have collectively caused difficulties in the export of these industries. “This time in previous years was originally a busy season, but orders have not improved yet,” said Yang Yuping of Zhangyanggang Dayangfeng Textile Company. Since March of this year, export orders for the textile industry have declined significantly, and have not recovered since then. .

Transfer of overseas purchases to other countries China's volume reduction in this market is a great benefit for other countries, and some countries in Vietnam and the Western Hemisphere have profited a lot. In the past 12 months, China’s share of apparel imports in the US market has fallen by 40.8%, while exports from the Philippines, Indonesia and other countries have apparently increased. Kevin Burke, director of the American Apparel and Footwear Association, said he has come into contact with many businesses from the Western Hemisphere, especially those countries that have signed free trade agreements, such as Honduras and the Dominican Republic. Burke said like VF Corp, Hanesbrands, Levi Strauss & Co. And other companies have begun to seek new procurement channels in these countries. Rick Helfenbein, president of Luen Thai USA, said he still believes that China will be the largest apparel manufacturer, but his company has begun to purchase clothing from other countries.

According to statistics from the General Administration of Customs of Vietnam, Vietnam’s textile exports amounted to US$6.26 billion in the first six months of 2011, up 29.77% from the same period of last year, and accounted for 14.54% of Vietnam’s total exports for the first six months, of which textiles were exported in June. The amount was 1.32 billion U.S. dollars, an increase of 33.71% over the same period of last year. In the first six months of Vietnam, textiles were mainly exported to the United States (3.18 billion U.S. dollars) and Japan (71249 million U.S. dollars), which were 15.61% and 48.03% higher than the same period last year. Countries that exported more than US$100 million in textiles in the first six months of Vietnam, South Korea (3.1482 billion US dollars), Germany (276762 million US dollars), the United Kingdom (276.1 million US dollars), Spain (1.7826 billion US dollars), Canada (1.2036 billion US dollars ) and the Netherlands ($161.2 million).

According to Vietnamese media reports, Vietnam’s textile and apparel, footwear and leather goods companies have received new orders for export this year, and the number is increasing. Their orders have shifted from China to Vietnam. The Vietnam Footwear Association believes that the current production costs in China are high, and on the other hand, Vietnam's labor efficiency has been greatly improved. The workers' handicrafts have certain advantages compared with Indonesia, India, Malaysia and Bangladesh, and others like Adidas. The famous brands such as Nike and Nike are being deployed in various countries. Therefore, the production of many brands has shifted from China to Vietnam and other countries. He believes that if Vietnamese companies can make full use of this opportunity to provide a stable supply at a suitable price, this will be a development opportunity for Vietnamese companies.

India hopes to take away 10% of garment export business from China. As the second largest job-creating industry in India, the Indian apparel industry now provides employment for about 7 million Indians. The growth in exports is good news for the Indian economy. In February 2011, garment exports from India increased by 24% year-on-year, and exports rose by 18% in January. Encouraged by the significant growth in exports, the Federal Minister of Textiles Rita Menon said recently that the textile export target has been raised to approximately US$30 billion during the current fiscal year, compared with US$25 billion last year. Due to the growth of exports, the Indian government believes that India has the potential to increase India’s share of textiles and apparel, which accounts for world trade, from the current 4.5% to 8% to reach US$80 billion by 2020. According to reports, India has the largest number of looms in the world. India has 1.8 million woven weaving machines (45% of the world's total) and 200,000 non-woven looms (3% of the world's total). The number of spindles in India is the second largest in the world, accounting for 23% of the world. According to Premal Udani, AEPC, the demand for Indian products in the US market is very good, and the United States accounts for 40% of all clothing exports in India. Demand in the European market is also improving. If India can grab 10% of its business from China, India’s garment exports will double in the next few years.

In fact, from May 2010 to May 2011, the United States increased the imports of textiles from Central American countries by 17%. Among them, Salvador’s exports of US textiles increased by 27% (approximately US$1.2 billion) during the period. According to a statistical report issued by the Peruvian Customs and Excise Department (SUNAT), in July, Peru’s textile exports increased by 21.9% year-on-year; cumulative exports from January to July increased by 25% year-on-year.

Actively Shift to Reduce Costs The Chinese government believes that labor-intensive industries such as textiles urgently need to improve their competitiveness through industrial transfer. The Ministry of Industry and Information Technology recently held a symposium on the preparation of industrial transfer guidance catalogues and made in-depth explanations on the preparation of the “Guidance Catalogue for Industrial Layout and Industrial Transfer”. The meeting proposed that the Catalogue of Industrial Transfer Guidance will be of great significance in promoting regional industrial layout optimization and achieving coordinated regional development and is expected to be completed before the end of this year. According to the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology, during the “12th Five-Year Plan” period and even longer period, the task of industrial restructuring will not only be limited to improving the level of industrial development, but also the main point is to increase industry concentration, optimize regional industrial division and layout, and promote the development of characteristic industries in all regions. The realization of regional coordinated development and the promotion of industrial transfer are undoubtedly the most effective ways to achieve optimal layout and are in line with the scientific concept of development.

In fact, as early as in 2009, many provinces, cities, and autonomous regions across the country have started the work related to industrial transfer, and some provinces have also taken industrial transfer and optimized industrial layout as the key strategy for the coming period. The transfer of the textile and garment industry began earlier in the country as early as 2008. In the central and western regions, other economically underdeveloped regions in the province, and overseas, they are the foothold for the transfer of China's textile and garment industry. The only purpose of active transfer is to reduce costs. .

In Jiangsu, "transfer within the province" occupies a large proportion. For example, many people in Suqian in northern Jiangsu Province went to Suzhou, Wuxi, Changzhou and other places to attract investment and took the initiative to undertake industrial transfers. In 2006, the Huai'an Industrial Park of Jiangsu Hongdou was started construction. The industrial park covers an area of ​​nearly 700 acres and can provide employment for 10,000 people. In August 2007, Jiangsu Bosideng Industrial Development Co., Ltd., with a total investment of 1 billion yuan, held a groundbreaking ceremony in Sihong. At the same time, a group of large enterprises, such as Menglan Group and Hengli Group, are also rushing to “splash” in northern Jiangsu to open up an industrial park. According to statistics, the total investment of these four textile and garment companies in the northern part of the country will reach 6 billion yuan. North Jiangsu has become the new main battlefield for large-scale private textile enterprises in southern Jiangsu. When Sunan enterprises went to the development of northern Jiangsu and the industries in southern Guangdong developed to the north of Guangdong and the east and west, some industrial clusters in Fujian and Zhejiang also spread to the periphery. The “inland” areas in the province became the first stop for the gradient transfer of textile and apparel industries. .

From a nationwide perspective, Henan, Jiangxi, Anhui, Sichuan, Chongqing, Xinjiang, and other places are major industrial transfer recipients. The transfer of textile and garment enterprises to the central and western regions can take advantage of local resources, energy advantages, and labor costs to save operating costs, and at the same time promote the use of resources in the central and western regions, and integrate the economic elements of the eastern coast with the western resource elements, realizing the eastern and western regions. Linkage to achieve a win-win situation.

Some textile and apparel companies have already shifted their production bases to Southeast Asia. The main considerations for such transfers are to change the trading environment and consider some of the cost factors. Due to the changes in the international trade environment and the gradual loss of the comparative advantages of the domestic manufacturing industry, more than 1,000 textile companies have invested in establishing factories in Vietnam and Cambodia. In Cambodia, Sihanouk Industries was established by the Red Bean Group. The park attracts many companies to station. There are also investments in Bangladesh and Western Hemisphere countries. These countries are not subject to quota restrictions on exports to Europe and the United States and are able to enjoy the most favored nation treatment. At the same time, these countries have given foreign companies considerable preferential space for taxation and other policies.

Transformation and upgrading are strengthening brand advantages Since 2011, the textile and apparel industry is facing more challenges due to the obvious increasing cost trend, macroeconomic policy adjustments, weak international demand, and domestic demand restrained by inflation. Enterprises generally recognize that many factors are currently affecting the order volume and profitability of enterprises. Only companies with large scale, high value-added products, and strong technological capabilities can win in a change and win more market share. . Transformation and upgrading have become the main theme for companies looking for a way out.

Judging from the current market, in addition to strengthening research and development to actively provide design and development for international buyers and increase the added value of export products, digging up domestic demand and strengthening brand awareness is the main approach for corporate transformation and upgrading. The active Chinese brands in the domestic market are blooming, but the branding operations of domestic apparel companies are relatively late. From early self-preparation of Shanshan, Luomeng and other men's clothing brands to the recent peak of brand development in the entire industry, the long-term entrusted OEM Production has caused some Chinese companies to lose their initiative in brand building. Processing garments is considered to be at the lowest end of the global apparel value chain, and Chinese apparel brands lack a sense of value and lack overall advantage over international brands. Compared with European brands, the lack of cultural atmosphere can not obtain respect from the brand culture, so European luxury brands accelerate access to the Chinese market. At the same time, fast-fashion brands such as Spain's ZARA and Japan's Uniqlo have extended to China's second-tier and third-tier markets. The intensified layout of the Chinese market has become a clear trend and competition in the branded apparel domestic sales market will become increasingly fierce.

Therefore, it is imperative for the transformation and upgrading enterprises to speed up the cultivation of brand dominance during the transition period. The first thing to do is to improve the design level of branded apparel and increase the brand reputation; second is to increase labor productivity and reduce the cost of circulation; third is to increase branded apparel. The degree of cultural integration, especially high-end brands, enhances the brand image; Fourth, strengthens the brand's ability to control the domestic and international value chains and enhances its own brand's foothold in the international market; Fifth, it strengthens industrial chain adjustment and changes the connection of the industrial chain. Bad situation.

For companies that “walk on two legs” and develop only in the international market, what they need to do is to increase production levels, improve design standards, and further improve management. It is reported that in the U.S. market, some high-end clothing manufacturers have begun production in the United States. In August, the number of U.S. apparel industry employees increased by 1,100. For these manufacturers, the production of clothing in the United States is more efficient than overseas, and many people reduce costs by placing orders at the end of the season. This pattern will undoubtedly force China's textile and garment companies to the point where they must transform and upgrade.

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