Collection watches must know: start with style and movement

When it comes to watch collecting, the first thing to consider is that not every timepiece in a collection needs to be a high-profile celebrity watch. Among these, the so-called "top ten watches" are often considered the pinnacle of horological achievement. However, for most enthusiasts, chasing rankings isn't necessary. What truly matters is understanding the brand's philosophy and the story behind its design. Collecting watches involves more than just looking at the style or movement—it's about knowing the history and the values that define a brand. Some brands may only have a decade of heritage, yet their pieces can fetch millions. The reason? Their unique vision and design concepts set them apart. There was once a brand whose materials and functions weren’t particularly advanced, but their watches still sold for millions—because they represented something more than just timekeeping. Different collectors have different priorities. Some focus on aesthetics, while others are drawn to complex mechanisms like tourbillons or perpetual calendars. Over time, the value of well-chosen collectibles can grow significantly. Watches with decades of history are now highly sought after, making it wise to start your collection by focusing on both style and mechanics. A smart strategy is to concentrate on the most iconic models of a particular brand. For example, while many brands produce tourbillon watches, Breguet’s early designs are considered the gold standard. Choosing the most classic versions ensures better long-term value. In short, don’t just chase a single brand—focus on those with a strong legacy and timeless appeal. For newcomers, the best way to get started is to stay informed about global auction trends. This helps build an intuitive sense of value. A basic rule of thumb is that scarcity increases desirability. The fewer the pieces available, the higher the potential for appreciation. However, many so-called “limited editions” today are overproduced. True exclusivity means only a few dozen—or even just a handful—of watches are made. These are the ones that will hold their value and potentially appreciate over time. By combining knowledge, patience, and a clear understanding of what makes a watch valuable, new collectors can make informed decisions and build a meaningful and rewarding collection.