Leading Word: Although it is reasonable to see the military style appearing on the bridge in autumn and winter, like this season, it is rare for the fashion designer to personally carry out the improvement of the outfit and bring about an upsurge.
Designers of major brands went deep into every corner of history, digging out the heroic and bloody prettier scenery of the war era, and creating an irreversible aesthetic trend.
There has been a comparison of uniforms among fashion fans as "necessities for floating in times of recurring tides." This statement is true. From the end of the 18th century when modern military uniforms took shape, each evolution of military uniforms more or less reflected the long-term fashion trends in sportswear, daily wear, and even high fashion. From the big round brass buckle with tasseled epaulettes, from pilot glasses to black-and-white striped navy shirts, from khaki cloth used by British Indian soldiers to military-specific military green and camouflage fabrics, these design elements that came from the military uniform , With its full of English gas and yet a unique temperament all the way to survive so far.
Today, it has been difficult for us to prove when and where the military uniforms were systematically incorporated into the fashion field. However, we can list many successful examples of the military style being modified and deconstructed. For example, Thomas Burberry took inspiration from military supplies as early as the beginning of the last century, completed a functional and aesthetic waterproof clothing, hunting and windbreaker. During World War I, Thomas Burberry won the title of "combat shirt" by virtue of his unique designs such as double-breasted, straps, warm thick pieces, deep pocket waist, and D-ring. The most amazing thing is that these originally designed for special purposes (such as the D-ring is to facilitate the wearer to hang grenades and other equipment, and the shoulder strap is to facilitate the wearer to wear your own rank and badge), even without any obstacles Been accepted by fashion fans and still used today. Yves Saint Laurent, who has consistently advocated “wearing for men and womenâ€, inspired the North African military’s hunting jackets and completed a number of classic fashions for women to show their modern tough lines. In the 1967 movie "The Day of the Fairy," Catherine Deneuve wore a military-style double-breasted short coat from Yves Saint Laurent, a tough patent coat trench coat, and a tailored black knee-length dress and low in different scenes. Heel shoes, for the "perfect Paris style" written the best footnote.
If the modified version of Jean Paul Gaultier or John Galliano is overly gorgeous, then in the current season, the vast majority of designers' practice is to mix and match traditional military uniforms with different fashion elements in various ways. Beauty. In the Burberry fall/winter collection led by Christopher Bailey, there are flight jackets, trench coats, double-breasted trench coats, and a novel mix of lace dresses and taffeta cocktail dresses. For many fashionable people, these lapel wool coats, thick twill military coats, and parka coats with hoods and large pockets are impeccable in terms of style, shape and cut.
Marc Jacobs, who has always been good at printing patterns, took inspiration from the uniform style this season to create a number of tough and retro-style fashion masterpieces. Marc by Marc Jacobs 2010 women's autumn and winter the entire series with military green and black as the main tone, interspersed with bright red and white as embellishment, giving a solid but not boring impression. The style of military coats, military uniform jackets and flower pattern lace skirts, classic black dress match, showing the feminine side. In addition, Marc Jacobs, who always pays attention to details, also used a large number of zipper elements and gold-copper buttons to decorate the theme of military uniforms, so that the entire series in a tough and soft balance.
Perhaps because the masculine-flavored elements of the military are improved, they can better embody femininity. In this season, many designers favoring strong styles have chosen pilot jackets, pilot glasses, striped navy shirts, and sailor bow ties. , military boots and other hot elements from the battlefield to the flyover. In Balmain's autumn/winter show, the supermodel was like a soldier marching in line, wearing an army tuxedo with a shoulder line and a metal badge. Design director Christophe Decarnin drew on the fringe epaulet decoration of Russian traditional military uniforms, and applied the shiny and gorgeous rock elements, bringing with it a series of powerful feelings that did not appear to be superior. Instead, they were closely associated with the dazzling military uniforms of the current street culture. Shanghai Tang, who is adept at taking advantage of oriental culture, has launched a special Military Capsule series under the direction of Joanne Ooi, the design director. The series refers to the elegant collar design of French military uniforms. At the same time, the classic elements such as velvet cuffs, military pockets, epaulettes, delicate uniform inserts and brass round buckles are added.
Coincidentally, Gant, a fashion brand from the East Coast of the United States, also sought inspiration from the navy uniforms of the United States and the United States this season and launched a neat and bright winter sailing series. The series has a distinct sense of marine culture, and it is relaxing and classic. Among them, a number of single items have appeared on the design of the “two-side upturned anchorâ€, while the rubber badges, the gray-white rubber logo, and the black iron with a very special texture. The material is a large button, like a fishing line as detailed and tough blue stitches, silently evoking the hero worship complex in the hearts of fashion fans.