asmita’s peckham trousers

Today, Asmita is here to share her experience sewing her very own Peckham Trousers. We always appreciate how carefully she approaches fitting, and her new pair is no exception. Over to you, Asmita!

A woman squatting in red and white trousers paired with a brown sweater and a red cardigan.

Sewing pants always feels like a mix of excitement and nervousness. They’re one of the garments I wear consistently year-round, yet they remain an area of my sewing where I’ve spent the least amount of time experimenting. While I frequently make tops and dresses, when it comes to pants, I often stick to the same RTW pairs I’ve had for years. When the Peckham trousers pattern came out, I knew it was time to finally take the plunge and try making something for myself that I hadn’t done in almost two years. The last “proper” (with a zipper fly) pants I made for myself were the Hollywood trousers. Since then, I’ve mostly been working on elastic-waisted options, including pajama pants, but nothing at the three-scissor difficulty level. I was particularly drawn to the Peckham trousers because of their partially elasticated waistline, which seemed perfect for the extra ease I’ve been needing around my midsection lately.

Sizing and Modifications

To start, I went with a size 10 for both the waistband and pant legs. I recently became a fan of the #topdowncenterout method after successfully making a pair of pants for my daughter using this technique, and I was eager to give it a proper try for myself. Here’s how I adjusted the pattern:

  1. I reduced the overall length at the knee-to-seam line by 1.5 inches and then took off another half-inch from the hem during the muslin fitting.
  2. The primary adjustment I realized I needed was removing about ¾ inch all the way up the back leg, tapering it to about 5/8 inch where the back leg meets the front leg. For the front leg, I took out a similar amount.
  3. I needed just a bit more room on the sides, so I took in about ¼ inch on each side where the front and back legs meet.
  4. I omitted the pocket-facing piece since I didn’t create a coin pocket and found it unnecessary.
  5. Because my fabric was on the lighter side (more details below), I first interfaced the entire waistband with woven interfacing. Additionally, since I only had 1.5-inch-wide elastic, I increased the waistband width by ¼ inch.

A close-up view of the pattern adjustments for the Peckham Trousers sewing pattern.

Fabric

Although the pattern suggests a fabric with some stretch, sourcing such material proved challenging in my location. While searching for fabric about a month ago, I stumbled upon this beautiful pinstripe cotton. Upon further investigation, I learned it was denim khadi (hand-spun cotton), which the shopkeeper claimed was great for pants-making. However, once I got it home and onto the cutting table, I discovered it was lighter than expected. I decided to skip the welt pocket due to concerns about sagging. To ensure the waistband held the pants up properly, I lined it entirely.

Results: Pros and Cons

  • My choice of fabric resulted in pants that feel less structured than I anticipated. While this means I can wear them year-round (which is a definite plus in my warm climate), the overall look is somewhat different from what I’ve seen in other photos. In the future, I’ll likely consider pairing specific patterns with fabrics that better suit their intended style.
  • The top-down center-out method (popularized by Ruth of @ithacamaven) gave me a lot of confidence when it came to fitting. It’s always worth making a muslin and reflecting on it before cutting into your final fabric. This isn’t the best fit I could achieve, but given that I’ve only made two pairs of pants in my life, I’m okay with that. It’s a learning process, and I’m enjoying it.
  • Techniques: This zipper fly is by far the best I’ve ever sewn—and certainly the fastest. I didn’t even need the seam ripper once! Like many skills, it improves with practice, whether applied to specific techniques or entire garments.

A side view of a woman standing in red and white trousers paired with a brown sweater and a red cardigan.

A back view of a woman wearing red and white striped trousers and a red sweater.

A close-up of a side trouser pocket with a hand inserted.

A close-up of the front zip fly on red and white trousers.

I absolutely love these pants. Their casual vibe (even more relaxed than I initially planned) makes them a perfect addition to my wardrobe, and I definitely plan to make at least one more pair (because I still want that welt pocket!). If you’re thinking about giving them a try, I highly recommend it!

A woman standing in front of a brick wall wearing red and white trousers, a red sweater, and a long scarf. She looks down at the ground in front of her.



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